Friday 12 October 2012

Basic Of Fishing Reels

 File:Angler on a Wintry Lake, by Ma Yuan, 1195.jpg
The oldest evidence of fishing reels is from a Chinese painting done around A.D. 1195. Fishing reels first appeared in England around 1650. George Snyder of Paris, Kentucky, is given credit for inventing the first fishing reel in America around 1820.
In basic terms, a reel is a mechanical device that holds and spools out fishing line. It has a brake to slow running fish, a handle to retrieve line and a bracket to fasten the reel to a fishing rod. For anybody who's ever knotted-up a line, you know that fishing reels can be a little temperamental. For experienced anglers, however, a fishing reel is a beautifully effective and efficient device for catching fish. Over the years, hundreds of companies have made thousands of models of fishing reels. But basically there are four types of reels you should know. They vary in size from reels as small as a baseball to giant, sea-fishing reels as big as your head.

Bait-Casting Reel

Bait-Casting Reel
Bait-Casting Reel

A bait-casting reel is designed to cast larger lures or bait for a longer distance. They typically include a level-wind mechanism to prevent the line from being trapped under itself during rewind and subsequent casts.
Many bait-casting reels are also fitted with anti-reverse handles and drags designed to slow runs by large and powerful game fish.
Standard bait-casting reels are mounted above the rod and have a retrieving crank on the right side of the reel. But they're also made for lefties.
Because the momentum of the forward cast must rotate the spool as well as propel the lure, you should always use heavier lures with a bait-casting reel.

Open-Bail Spinning Reel

Open-Bail Spin Casting Reel
Open-Bail Spin Casting Reel

With a spin-casting reel, a mechanical pickup is used to retrieve the line and an anti-reverse lever prevents the crank handle from rotating while a fish is pulling line from the spool. And because the line doesn't have to pull against a rotating spool, like it does with a bait-casting reel, you can use much lighter lures with a spin-casting reel.
Fixed-spool reels are cast by opening the bail, grasping the line with the forefinger and then using a backward snap of the rod followed by a forward cast, releasing the line with the forefinger at the same time. On the retrieve, the large rotating wire cage or bail (either manually or trigger-operated) serves as the line pickup, restoring the line to its original position on the spool.
Open-Bail reels are traditionally mounted below the rod. And they're really pretty simple to use.
Go to the Fishing Techniques section to find out how to cast and retrieve with a spinning reel

Closed Spin Casting Reel

Closed Spin-Casting Reel
Closed Spin-Casting Reel

As with the open-bail spinning reel, the line on this reel is thrown from a fixed spool, so you can use relatively light lures and baits. However, the closed spin-pin cast reel eliminates the large wire bail and line roller in favor of one or two simple pickup pins and a metal cup to wind the line on the spool.
Traditionally mounted above the rod, the spin cast reel is also fitted with an external nose cone that encloses and protects the fixed spool.
Go to the Fishing Techniques section to find out how to cast and retrieve with a spinning reel.

Fly Fishing Reel

Fly Fishing Reel
Fly Fishing Reel

A fly reel is normally operated by stripping line off the reel and wrapping it around the fingers with one hand, while casting the rod with the other hand.
(Well, it's a little tougher than that. So go to the Fishing Techniques section to find out exactly how to cast and retrieve with a fly reel.)
Early fly reels often had no drag (a brake to keep the fish from swimming away). To slow a fish, you had to apply hand pressure to the rim of the revolving spool (known as "palming the rim"). But today, fly reels typically have more sophisticated disc-type drag systems with increased adjustment range and resistance to high temperatures created during braking.
Automatic fly reels use a coiled spring mechanism that pulls the line into the reel with the flick of a lever. Automatic reels tend to be heavy for their size, and have limited line capacity. Automatic fly reels peaked in popularity during the 1960s, and since that time have been outsold many times over by manual fly reels.



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Basic of Baitcasting Reel






Semakin lama semakin ramai kawan kawan yang menggemari reel baitcaster... Disini saya lampirkan 1 artikel yg bagus tentang cara kita hendak belajar menggunakan baitcaster. Tetapi saya meminta maaf kerana artikel ini dalam Bahasa English... Jika berkesempatan saya akan cuba menterjemahkan kedalam bahasa melayu...
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Baitcasting 101

Whenever a beginner asks for help in learning how to use a baitcasting outfit, everybody says "Practice, practice, practice!” But while practice cannot be overemphasised, if you don't know where to start, all you're doing is getting more and more frustrated. Trial and error may be OK for some people, but I think making all the possible errors before you figure out the right way to do it really stinks! I just hope the following material can help cut down the amount of time required to learn to use a baitcaster and maybe save a few reels from a watery grave. 

I have a definite conservative bias as far as learning to cast is concerned: It's been my experience that if you start at the very bottom of the learning curve and try to master only one thing at a time your progress is faster and you run into less aggravation along the way.



A – INITIAL REEL ADJUSTMENTS:

These adjustments will NOT give you any kind of distance, but will just about prevent any kind of backlash if you keep your casts smooth and easy. Forget about using your thumb to control the cast for the time being, it shouldn’t be needed if you follow the instructions faithfully.

1 - Adjust the reel spool tension (using the small round knob on the handle side):

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For now, tighten it to the point where you need to jiggle the rod slightly for the lure/weight to drop some, but without continuing all the way to the ground. (This is tighter than usually recommended, but the goal at this point is CONTROL, not distance)

2 - Adjust the brakes:

a. If your reel uses magnetic brakes: Use the adjustment wheel on the side of the reel opposite to the handle and use about 75-80% of the braking force available.

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b. If your reel uses adjustable centrifugal brakes: Most reels require (part of) the side of the reel opposite the handle to be taken off to access the centrifugal brake "flower" on the end of the spool spindle. Pull four of the six tiny sliding blocks in the OUT position (away from the center) to turn them ON. The blocks usually "click" out of the locked/off position.

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B - YOUR FIRST OVERHEAD CAST:

Put on at least a ½ oz. casting plug (or equivalent). This will give you more of a feel of the rod and reel interaction and make everything easier. Keep the plug/lure snug against the tip of the rod – don’t let it hang down at all at this time.

Hold the rod horizontally in front of you. The handles should be on top of the reel, that is, pointing UP if you're right-handed (using a right-handed reel). This is similar to the way you would hold a tennis racket and gives the widest possible range of movement to your wrist.

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Holding the reel

With your thumb applying pressure directly on the spool, unlock it, using whatever mechanism is used (thumb bar, pushbutton, etc.). The pressure of your thumb against the spool is what's preventing it from moving at this point.

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Thumb bar spool release

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Pushbutton spool release

Bring the rod up over your shoulder to approximately the 2 o'clock position. Your upper arm should barely move for this; use your forearm and your wrist.


Now bring the rod forward as if you were trying to hammer a nail in a wall in front of you, but use a smooth motion; this is NOT the time for forceful movements! As the rod reaches the 12 o'clock position, take your thumb off the spool, thus releasing it to feed line out as the casting weight flies out... and falls far short of what you were hoping for.

Don't worry, this is to be expected... at least you didn't get a backlash!


C - EDUCATING YOUR THUMB AND INCREASING YOUR DISTANCE:

After you've practiced using the suggested adjustments and get a good feel of things, you will gradually be able to reduce the amount of tension and braking force, as you simultaneously "educate" your thumb.

As you'll see, the thumb's actually used only at the very end of the cast, just when the lure is about to hit the water. This is as it should be (in my opinion, using your thumb for anything but very lightly feathering of the spool at any other point only cuts down on your distance and isn't the best way to maintain control over the cast; that's what brakes are for). After a while, you can stop the spool turning just as the lure hits the water and you don't take any distance away from the cast. As you educate your thumb, you can cut down on the spool tension until it's almost completely off, leaving just enough to prevent the spool from moving side to side.

As you get comfortable with short casts, you can gradually reduce the amount of braking force (see section A-2 above) and achieve more distance, as required. Just remember, a SMOOTH, FLUID cast is what you want, except for rare circumstances.

You’ll also learn not to pause at the 2:00 o’clock position but time your movement to just let the rod tip “load” with the weight of the lure before you bring it forward. This way, you’re using the rod’s stored energy to make the cast, rather than your arm. Again, smooth and fluid are the keys.

Since you’re not stopping in the middle of the cast anymore, you can now let your lure dangle by a few inches from the tip, making it easier to load the rod and storing even more energy to be used for your actual cast (forward). Note: If you try this before you learn not to pause on the backcast, your lure will do all it can to snag your rod and make sure you get zero distance and a nice fat bird’s nest!

Advanced anglers will probably point out that I pay too much attention to distance and didn’t even mention accuracy. I’ve observed that beginners are much more concerned with distance than accuracy at first. This is particularly true if they’ve been using spinning tackle before. So this apparent neglect is purely strategic: once beginners achieve what they consider to be a reasonable distance, they’ll naturally change their focus to accuracy. Nothing like getting hung up and repeatedly missing your target to provide the motivation!

Finally, if you can master the basic cast, and achieve both control and comfort, then it truly becomes a matter of PRACTICE, PRACTICE and more PRACTICE for both distance, accuracy and versatility.

From --> http://pages.infinit.net/fishing/bait101.htm

Selamat mencuba & sebarang pertanyaan boleh diajukan didalam topik ini.

Casting - Melatih Ketepatan Lontaran







Bagi pemancing yang suka casting di sungai (casting dengan spinning rod), muara dan Tasik, ketepatan lontaran umpan menjadi sangat penting kerana  di tempat seperti ini terlalu banyak “penghalang” seperti batang-batang pokok, akar-akar, ranting yang hanyut, tumbuhan air, reba dan lain-lain. Ini sedikit berbeza dengan casting di laut dimana kadar sangkutan itu kebanyakan ada di bawah dan bukan di permukaan atau di tengah air. Ketepatan lontaran yang tinggi di sungai atau muara sangat menentukan apakah kita akan mendapatkan strike atau tidak. Kita tahu, spesies sungai dan muara hidup di “rumah” yang salah satu syaratnya adalah di tempat senyap atau aman. Dan bermakna di tempat-tempat yang “sukar” adalah tempat yang harus kita lontarkan gewang kita.


Dan ini bermakna jika pemancing inginkan keputusan terbaik memancing spesies freshwater dan estuary maka salah satu syarat yang mutlak harus dikuasai adalah mampu melemparkan gewang setepat atau sedekat mungkin dengan rumah-rumah ikan tersebut. Bagaimana kalau kita masih bermasalah dengan ketepatan casting? Atau malah belum boleh casting dengan baik? Jawapannya mudah, berlatihlah. Ada bermacam cara casting yang berbeza. Tiga cara yang biasa dilakukan orang adalah overhand, sidearm, dan underhand. Ketiga tiga cara ini adalah berbeza dan cara melatih casting dan ketepatannya pun berbeza-beza.

Overhand/Overhead

Bayangkan Anda berdiri di depan sebuah jam dinding, dan target Anda ada di arah jam tiga. Tataplah target dengan cermat. Peganglah joran selari dengan air. Ketika anda mengayunkan batang joran, pastikan siku anda selari dengan tulang rusuk. Arahkan hayunan joran ke posisi jam 10 dan gunakan pergelangan tangan untuk menyentakkan joran ke depan dan lepaskan kepitan jari anda pada tali dan pada masa yang sama, kira-kira ujung joran berada di posisi jam 11. Ulangi berkali kali hingga arah lemparan Anda semakin tepat dan posisi jatuhnya lure pun tepat di posisi yang kita inginkan.







Sidearm. 
Teknik casting sisi ini lebih susah dibandingkan overhand casting. Bayangkan Anda berdiri di depan sebuah jam. Target kita masih pada posisi jam 3. Pegang joran selari dengan air. Jika Anda tidak kidal, hayunkan joran ke arah posisi jam 7 dan dengan pergelangan tangan anda sentakan dengan kuat joran ke depan dan tepat pada posisi jam 6 lepaskanlah kepitan jari anda pada tali. Ulangi lagi dan terus maksimumkan lontaran dan ketepatan anda dengan menggunakan hayunan joran untuk mengawal lemparan kita.





Underhand. 
Peganglah joran kira-kira sama aras dengan pinggang dan selari dengan air dan pada sudut 45 darjah dari target. Posisikan gewang pada sekitar 6 hingga 8 inchi dari ujung joran. Lalu dengan gerakan yang lembut tetapi bertenaga kemudian Lepaskan kepitan jari  kita pada tali pada masa ujung joran menyentuh dasar lingkaran. Hanya gunakan pergelangan tangan untuk menggerakan joran. Ulangi berkali-kali. Naikkan ujung joran disaat umpan kita lepaskan jika menginginkan jarak lemparan yang jauh.


Beberapa Tip Casting :
Jika teknik casting, jarak lemparan dan ketepatan kita sudah demikian sebaiknya jangan lupakan juga beberapa hal seperti bunyi bising akibat pergerakan atau bunyi casting kita,kerana dengan bunyi bunyian pelik atau pergerakan yang banyak menyebabkan ikan akan lari menyuruk di tempat lain atau menjadi pasif.   menggulung tali secepat mungkin menghindari slack line di hari yang berangin, menggunakan tackle yang seimbang baik antara rod, line, reel dan gewang kita, jangan berlebihan mengisi spool reel kita untuk menghindari birds nest dan lain-lain. Pengunaan pakaian yang bersesuaian dengan situasi sesuatu kawasan juga adalah digalakkan untuk penyamaran bagi keputusan yang memberangsangkan.